I’m Dreaming Of a… Christmas in Spain

Every festive season between the 24th of December and the 6th of January, Spain comes alive. The illuminated streets of both cities and small towns bustle with merry shoppers dashing at the last minute to pick up ingredients for their family dinners or special gifts for loved ones. During this period that traditionally centres around family, Spain makes no exception. Let’s take a look at some of the most popular traditions and plans to enjoy over Christmas in Spain. 

1."El Gordo” Christmas Lottery

It would be impossible to delve into the heart of soul of Christmas in Spain without mentioning one of the most important events of the year - the Christmas lottery, also known as “El Gordo”. Dating back to the early 19th century in Cadiz, this highlight of many a Spanish household kicks off the festivities and although it follows the traditional concept and rules of how we all know lottery draws in our home countries, there are certainly a few twists that make it stand out from the rest. Décimos (one tenth of a billet (ticket)), which cost €20, begin to be sold in July, making it one of the longest-running lotteries each year worldwide. Unlike the traditional glitzy broadcast of a lotto draw back home, in Spain, schoolchildren from the former orphanage The San Ildefonso School of Madrid call out the chosen numbers in a unique chant starting first thing in the morning until just before lunchtime. Check out our post on El Gordo for more fun facts about El Gordo in Spain. Feeling lucky this year? Do it like a true Spaniard and bag yourself a décimo or two. Good luck! 

2. Mercados navideños

If you’re looking for one surefire way to get into the festive spirit and experience a taste of home, check out the mercadillos navideños (Christmas markets) - the closest you’ll get to a true winter wonderland of lights, colours and Christmas cheer. Although they’re not quite the same as our versions back home, you can still take a stroll around lots of stalls and find artesanal gifts and sample some roasted chestnuts or different types of turrón. This post by Club Rural lists 10 of the best mercadillos navideños in Spain, from Plaza Mayor in Madrid to the Plaza del Pilar in Zaragoza. 

3. Nochebuena feast

Those of us who celebrate Christmas are more than aware of how it goes - food, food and more food. Yes, it’s custom pretty much everywhere to fill your boots over the festive period, from turkey and stuffing to mince pies and chocolate. In northern Europe, the main feast normally takes place on the afternoon of the 25th when we tuck into a huge family lunch of meat, veggies and potatoes, followed by a sweet treat. So how does it differ in Spain? Well, on top of the Christmas Day lunch with family, the main meal for Spaniards takes place on Christmas Eve night - not surprising really considering the Spanish custom to eat dinner between 9pm and 11pm. Families gather around and indulge in shellfish, cold cured meats, cheese, cooked meat and fish, potatoes, and lots of bread. However, the more Christmasses you spend in Spain, the more you will notice that the Christmas Eve dinner varies from household to household. Take a look at our post on healthy holiday eating tips if you’re on the hunt for some ideas for a lighter dinner this year. 

A longstanding tradition that has been upheld during Christmas in Spain since 1909 is the celebration of the final twelve strokes of midnight to see in the new year. Yes, this seems oddly familiar, right? Although this traditional countdown is held all over the world, even being used in scenes in Christmas movies, in Spain there’s a slight twist. The tradition, known as the “doce uvas de la suerte” [the twelve good luck grapes], consists of eating one grape at every stroke of the last 12 strokes of midnight. Although the exact meaning of the grapes is disputed among Spaniards, with some claiming that each one represents a wish or resolution for the year ahead, and others saying that it is one grape for each of the 12 months, it’s undeniable that this is a well ingrained Spanish tradition that you should take part in this New Year’s Eve. If you’re in Madrid and health restrictions permitting, why not make your way to Sol in the centre for the televised countdown and don’t forget to get your grapes in advance - they tend to sell out in many supermarkets.

5. Reyes celebrations

When the festivities are coming to a sad end back home, in Spain there’s plenty more to come. As tradition has it, on the eve of the 6th of January each year (a national bank holiday, by the way), it’s not Santa who makes his way around the country delivering presents to all the children; it is in fact the Three Wise Men -or Los Reyes Magos- who take centre stage. But before they carry out their duties that night when the children are sound asleep, they take part in a magical parade that passes through many of the main cities: the Cabalgata de los Reyes Magos. If you’re free on 5 January, don’t miss out on this feast for the eyes. A stream of floats with huge characters and people in colourful costumes pass through the streets, music blasting, handing out sweets to kids (and adults if you’re lucky). It’s a true cultural experience that you should experience at least once in your time in Spain. But Reyes celebrations don’t stop there. The next day, aside from being the Spanish equivalent in many households of 25 December in terms of gift giving, it’s typical to eat the Roscón de Reyes. If you’re a dab hand in the kitchen and fancy making your own, check out this recipe by Pequerecetas to make your own sugary Roscón.

Although being away from family and friends back home over the festive period can oftentimes be tough, Christmas in Spain, as you will soon learn, can serve as a magical and fun replacement filled with deep-rooted traditions, delicious food, and the all-important Christmas cheer. Immerse yourself in the culture and take part in all the festivities and you’ll soon realise that being in a different country during this time is not so bad after all.